SOLD!

Haven’t updated this site in a long time, but yes I did finally sell this Touareg on September 30, 2014. On this date I topped the tank off and passed the keys to its new owner.

I loved my Touareg experience, and may purchase another one in the distant future – if not another VAG SUV product (Audi Q5 TDi or Cayenne Diesel). This vehicle provided great memories tracking in the snow, light off-roading, camping/backpacking and transportation to/from cycling events. It has also provided a comfortable environment to myself, my passengers and my pets. Couldn’t ask for much more – so why did I sell?

Around the middle of 2014 I experienced an ‘over-heating’ issue. The motor wasn’t actually over-heating, but the ECU believed it to be so it kicked the car into limp mode. Had it towed to the dealer for a diagnosis and they expected a ~$20 sensor on the fan assembly to be at fault. There are 2 fan assemblies on this car, and the catch is you can’t replace just that sensor but you have to replace the entire Bosch fan assembly at a cost of $500 each. There was no way to figure out which assembly it was, or so I was told. There was a 50/50 chance, and they happened to replace the wrong one. So my bill went from $20, to $500, to $1000 not counting labor. This wasn’t the end of things, they were fixing minor things along the way like cracked piping, as well as replacing the entire cooling system (water pump, etc). My total bill was something north of $7500. All this work was done as the car was around 130,000 miles – this has also been the highest mileage VAG product I’ve ever owned. Thus, when it was repaired and operating at 100%, I drove it for another 5k while contemplating on selling it. I decided to list it and a buyer found me nearly immediately. Test drove the truck, I explained everything and he’s been happy with it ever since.

In my ownership of the vehicle I’ve spent somewhere north of $20k on gas (always 91-oct unleaded, that’s 5220.17 gallons of fuel), and about $17k in out of pocket maintenance – including wear/tear items.

I tracked everything in Gas Cubby, here are some factoids about my 2006 Touareg V6

Avg MPG – 14.57
Max MPG – 18.49
Min MPG – 10.71
Cost per mile – $0.27
Cost per day – $11.96
Miles per Fill Up – 279.64
Miles per $ – 3.74

Hope you’re enjoying your Touaregs! My next one will definitely be a TDI.

Drive Shaft Carrier Bearing Failure

This was bound to happen sooner or later, and at over 116,000 miles so far the failure happened very late. Temps looming around 94°F also seemed to have done her in. After my morning meeting I noticed a slight clunking and knocking on the shift selector and eventually the center console. If you’ve spent some time on Club Touareg you’ll immediately recognize the symptoms and think – this is going to hurt.

Had it towed to Sunnyvale Volkswagen and was surprised that they actually offered the kit rather than the entire shaft replacement. Difference was about $500 between the two (~$600 for the kit and ~$1100 for the shaft), both required about $350 worth of labor to install. I opted for the kit as this is a rather common failure, and the shaft is nearly always (I can’t recall anyone with a damaged shaft) intact. If one goes with the shaft replacement this failure will happen again, as the bearing is still the same oem rubber bearing as the vehicle came with. There are several kits available, but worst case scenario they replace the rubber bearing with another rubber bearing which will eventually fail – but you still have some $500 extra in our pocket.

With that $500 you’ll want to buy a kit from or similar the one Touareg Drive Shaft or USP Motorsports offers. It’s built using a metal housing and urethane bushings rather than the hard rubber which deteriorates over time. You can even watch the installation video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GWPH4V5PdI

Better yet, go do this now if you haven’t replaced your bearing yet. It’ll save you at least $500 from the get go.

The Touareg should be ready sometime tomorrow. Will let you know what the outcome is and if the kit they utilized is one of these better kits, or an oem replacement (as VW only supplies entire drive shafts).

Crankcase Breather Valve | Part No. 022-103-765-A

After returning from Europe I had to deal with an uncooperative Touareg. It would take slightly longer than usual to fire up, but once it did it had no trouble starting the rest of the day. Then the idle would become rough at stoplights, the rpm’s would linger at 2000rpm for a moment when my foot left the throttle. At times the vehicle felt like the motor was wobbling, and every now and again there would be a strange almost electronically generated high pitched noise. To say it was concerning would be to under sell it.

Naturally with all things Volkswagen, and general ignition issues I went ahead and replaced all 6 spark plugs and all 6 ignition coil packs. The problem subsided for a moment, but was still ever present. Annoying.

The next step, or rather what the first step should have been, was to pull the engine fault codes. This was a holy hell moment – misfires in every cylinder amongst some misc items. Symptoms pointed to a vacuum leak somewhere. However, there was one item that I figured was worth swapping before dropping it off at the dealer to let them sort out – the Crankcase Breather Valve, VAG Part No. 022-103-765-A. It is also known as a PCV valve, or if you speak “tuner-speak” the terms “bypass” or even “blow off” will arise. Unlike a “blow off valve” or “bypass valve” which vents to the atmosphere, a PCV or Breather Valve re-circulates the un-burned gasses from the crankcase back into the combustion chamber. In short, it prevents a whole lot of air pollution. I guess one is able to also install a catch can here, but I’m staying more or less factory with my vehicles these days.

The part itself runs about $150, and takes all of maybe 30 seconds to install. Take a flat head screwdriver and slowly work off the prongs that connect the valve to the crankcase. Then slowly work out the tube that connects to the combustion chamber and finally, very carefully, work off the sensor plug. You don’t want to damage the plug. To install is simply plug in the sensor, reconnect the hose, and snap into the crank case.

So far everything seems to be back in business. Hopefully this solves my issues, and if not I’ll be sure to let you know.

 

Brake Lever Replacement

VAG Part No. 7L6-711-878-F (T1/T2 Touareg Brake Lever)

Brought in the New Year’s from Reno, NV of all places. Average temperature was lingering around 20° F and plastics did not like it. I snapped 3-5 ladder straps on my snowboard bindings then the Touareg’s Parking Brake lever later in the evening. You can insert a screwdriver, or in my case the lace pull/hook for laced snowboard boots through the semi-circle to pull the plastic piece out to release the brake but a better idea is to keep a replacement on hand.

From Reno, with love.

Big thanks to “aircooled” for the DIY article on Club Touareg (click here). Replacement was incredibly easy, but do get a pair of needle nose pliers before attempting anything. Took all of maybe 5 minutes.

I’ve also submitted a CNC part request to 42 Draft Designs, hoping that they’d machine this out of aluminum and remedy the plastic failure for good. They’re currently loaded with projects, so if something ever comes up or if I have it milled locally I’ll update this blog.

because salt kills

Finally, had the Touareg de-salted (under-carriage as well) and cleaned in and out this afternoon. It’s ready for it’s next adventure (most likely Hollister SVRA later this month)!

-Wallace

VAG-COM Mods

Haven’t touched the Touareg in a while now and these were a few items I’ve been meaning to do since I purchased the thing. Very happy with the changes, can’t believe I waited so long.

• Transmission settings from USA to ROW
• Oh. My. What a Difference. Lag is nearly gone, shifts and acceleration is smooth and nearly unobstructed.
• Turned off DRLs
• Let’s face it. HID bulbs aren’t cheap, and DRLs at the height of the Touareg is just annoying.
• Turned off Seat Belt Warnings
• If you own a Touareg, you hate the seat belt warning as well.

That’s it for now. Maybe some other stuff in the future, like remote windows or rear fogs.

-Wallace

OEM Parts

Sunnyvale Volkswagen had this ‘good guy’ discount with the NorCal VW Gruppe years ago but have since stopped the program. I forgot what the exact details were but as a result those of us enrolled in the program receive some spectacular discounts on oem parts. In short, because I only pay a small percentage more then cost, there’s no reason to shop anywhere for parts other then the dealer. This also makes shopping for parts easy, and well keeps everything OEM.

A few common parts you’ll need to jot down if you also own a Volkswagen Touareg V6.

Oil Filter – VW Part No. 021-115-562-A

I typically keep a stockpile of these around. Although the I never use anything other then the OEM filter, I do not use the recommended Castrol Synthetic. This Touareg counts on Shell Rotella 5W-40 Full Synthetic for its duties. Change oil and replace filter every 3-5k.

Spark Plugs – NGK Part No. IZKR7B or VW Part No. 101-905-606-A

You can purchase these through any auto parts distributor through the NGK Part No, or through any dealer with the VW Part No. They come pre-gapped and if you pick them up through the dealer, fancy silver packaging along with the VW and Audi stamps on the ceramic. I believe NGK’s msrp is $12/plug, my cost was $14/plug. Replace every 15k, or once a year.

Intake Air Filter – VW Part No. 7L0-129-620

Don’t get this twisted with the Cabin Air Filter, this filter is what stands between the air that is combusted in your Touareg’s cylinders and nature. Replace every 15k or once a year. (Although I’ve used K&N Filters on other vehicles, I’m not a huge fan of them – the VF Supercharger kit on the GTI relocated the entire airbox so I didn’t have an alternative)

Cabin/Pollen Air Filter – VW Part No. 7H0-819-631-A

This filter on the other hand keeps your allergies at bay. This stands between nature and the air you breath in through the Touareg’s air system. Replace every 40k, or in my case – once a year, as the thought of breathing in allergens bothers me.

Hope this helped.

-Wallace

Good Vibes Japan…

My thoughts go out to all of Japan today, as the country experienced a 9.1 magnitude earthquake, 6.6 magnitude aftershocks, and trying to handle two extremely unstable nuclear power plants.

Let’s hope they’re able to recover in a timely manner, and let’s help them out in anyway we can.

-Wallace

Installed.

It took awhile, but they’re finally on.

The Votex spoiler took awhile to figure out how to mount. I was not convinced that the 3M mounting tape would hold the rear spoiler on at speed, but Andrew over at Dell Autobody assured me that it would. So after taping it up, I was also unsure what to tape so after comparing some parts I ended up with the following.

Taping it was one thing, installing it was a whole other deal. After allowing the tape to adhere to the fiberglass spoiler for a couple days, I washed the rear with a mix of rubbing alcohol, peeled back the tape backing and attempted to slap it to the rear of the truck. If only it was that easy. I had to place it and adjust it multiple times until it was finally centered and sitting where it needed to be. It wasn’t until this moment where pressed it down and secured it with painter’s tape.

The spoiler is identical to the W12 spoiler in every way. After I removed the tape I ran a couple errands with it and swore if the thing flew off I wasn’t going to go search for it. Well, I’ve been at over 100mph in the car now and it’s stuck on tight. *phew*

Next up were the fenders, 10 pieces in total. I also did not realize I would have to lose my mud guards for these things. Really didn’t want to remove them, but also haven’t missed them yet. Removing the mud guards were straight forward, except it left 3 mounting points on the front fenders…going to have the bodyshop shave those off. I like them, adds a subtle heft to the hips of the truck.

Now, because the under body of the vehicle is unpainted the fenders intrude with color. I have arranged for Motoskin to drop by this Friday and apply some matte black vinyl to the extended fender pieces. Hopefully the match would be close enough.

-Wallace

Finally painted

After over a year I finally got these things sprayed Volkswagen Campanella White to match the truck. It took a whole lot more time, and a whole lot more dough then I ever thought it would but it’s done and thanks to Dell Autobody in Campbell, Ca – colormatched perfectly.

Also, having it wrapped like Christmas morning sure doesn’t hurt. Now…to get them onto the truck!

[ Dell Autobody – Ask for Andrew ]

-Wallace

Votex Rear Skidplate Install

Finally got around to installing the Votex Rear Skid Plate (VW Part No. 7L00716112BC). After glancing through the instructions I knew it wasn’t as straight forward as I thought it was, things like liquid nail and painter’s tape were involved. I also did not realize how difficult it was to install this piece with the bumper still on the vehicle. In short, unless you have freakishly child like hands your exhaust would have to be removed, or your bumper cover will need to come off – otherwise make sure you have a dumpster full of swear words ready at your convenience.

Please excuse the cell phone pics, they were all I had to work with. After my failed initial attempt I was set on just dumping the truck off at the bodyshop, but for some strange reason I couldn’t wait until after the holidays (although I’ve waited nearly a year already). I found a video on bumper cover removal here. Pretty straight forward.

Open your hatch, then pry open two bolt covers, remove two bolts then pull out your rear taillight assembly. There is a ball socket that keeps your assembly in and you will have to be careful, but firm in your attempt to pull the unit out. It will literally pop out, so make sure you have good footing. Next, there are two torx bolts that become exposed, undo those and move into your wheel well, there are five more bolts in there. Repeat with the opposite side then move the the bottom of your bumper cover, there are four more sizable bolts underneath – undo those and you will be able to carefully pull your bumper cover off.

Once this is done I created a quick photo guide to help you install your skid plate, like I did. It’s not complete, but it along with the provided instructions should be able to make things that much easier.

Touareg Rear Skid Plate Install Photos

I wasn’t sure if I liked it when I installed it, but now after it’s been on for a couple days I actually do. Sure it’s just a plastic part, and offers no real protection but it does give the truck a lower and wider stance. Now…I just need to get around to installing the rest of the parts, new tires, and deal with that custom exhaust issue that’s been bumped up higher on the priority list now.

Hope this has been helpful to those of you who were also kind of lost as to how to install this thing.

-Wallace